With pensions fading away and 401k’s becoming one of the major reliance’s of retirement planning everyone wants to know the best setup for their 401K. While the best setup is generally what you mentally feel comfortable with saving for retirement, we can offer a few general tips and guidelines to help you choose. Please remember higher risk has potential for greater gains and losses, while lower risk is the opposite.

Portfolio Selection

Typically all 401K plans offer the following categories when choosing funds to place your money in: growth, capital preservation, income, balanced, and sometimes stock in the company for which you work.

Capital Preservation Funds

Capital preservation funds are designed to preserve your savings principal. They typically invest in government securities with a predictable rate of return. This is the lowest risk category with the lowest returns. The returns have been known to under perform inflation, which means you could lose buying power in any given year. For example, if the economy inflates at 4% and you get a 3% return on your savings, then you have 1% less buying power than the previous year. Simplified, a TV costs $100 this year and after inflation of 4% the TV costs $104 ($100*4%). Your savings account with $100 had a 3% return leaving you with $103 ($100*3%).

Income Funds

Income funds usually diversify your money into various bonds and are typically for long-term gains. While the exposure to any type of loss is very rare, it is not impossible. With the low amount of risk that comes with income funds you will generally see a lower return then the average of the New York Stock Exchange.

Balanced Funds

Balanced funds try to get the best of all worlds by diversifying between international stocks, domestic stocks, and fixed income securities. These funds are very reliant on the fund managers to choose the right mix to protect and grow your savings. If you are unsure which percentage of your funds you wish to devote to the various other funds, then you may want to consider a balanced fund. Before placing your money into one of these funds, please ensure that you research the funds management history and current manager.

Growth Funds

The “riskiest” of all investments is the growth fund, but it also has room for unimaginable returns. Over the long run these funds typically out perform the stock market because they are invested in international bonds and markets, small cap stocks, and emerging markets of developing nations. It is not uncommon for the annual returns to follow a pattern as such: -73%, 115%, 50%, -33%, 83%. These funds are subject to a variety of factors that some funds are not such as: oil prices, civil wars, and medical epidemics.

Company Stock

Everyone remembers the Enron scandal where thousands of employees lost all of their retirement savings in less than a year. While this is not always the case with companies and some may be very well and dependable, please keep situations like the above-mentioned in mind and take proper precautions to protect your finances. I do not recommend placing more than 10 percent of your savings portfolio into your company stock; however, the choice is completely up to you.

Choosing the Right Mix

With so many options it is hard for an individual to make a choice between various funds. Because everyone has different financial needs and situations the worst thing you can do is pick the same options as your co-workers without giving it a second thought. Before placing your money into any of the categories you will want to consider the following:

Years before retirement How much money you need Your reaction to sudden market drops
How many years before you retire?

One of the most important factors is how many years you plan to continue working. If you have a long time left to work (over 10 years) then a good idea may be to place the majority of your assets in growth funds. The longer you have left to work the more aggressive you should be while saving for your retirement. As you get closer to your retirement age (less than 10 years) you will want to consider starting to migrate some of your growth funds into balanced or conservative funds so your nest egg has less sensitivity to market drops

How much money do you need?

How much money you need goes hand-in-hand with how many years you have left to work. A lot of financial planners can assist you with determining how much money you should place into your savings each month based off these two factors. You can estimate this yourself by doing the math or using an online financial calculator. I recommend an online calculator or use of a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet to save yourself the time. Here is an example of what the math would look like. Take your expected rate of return on your savings and multiply it against the amount you save each year so that the first year looks like this:

Year 1: $4,000 (your yearly savings) % 1.08 (8%) = $4,320
Year 2: $4,320 (previous balance) + $4,000 (annual addition to savings) = $7,320 * 1.08 = $7,905
Continue to do this formula until you reach the year you desire, there are calculators that can do the math for you. Just type in “retirement calculator” in Google and you are sure to get results.

If the market crashed…would you care?

The #1 determining factor of where people place their retirement savings is mentality. Regardless of what you should and shouldn’t do with your retirement fund, if you are not able to mentally handle the results then it is not worth doing. I would never recommend to someone to place all of their money in growth funds if they would not like the idea of losing half of their money in a single month. Whatever you decide to place your money into, please ensure that you are okay with the decision. Remember, it’s never a real loss until you sell, any growth fund capable of losing half your nestegg in a year or less is also capable of returning it.

Tax Deferred or Taxed Contributions?

Another important determining factor is whether or not to save with after-tax contributions or before-tax contributions. Unlike regular savings accounts, 401K’s have the option putting money into them without being subject to federal income tax. Here is a list of things you should consider before choosing either option:

Your tax bracket If the money will be used for emergencies
What is your tax bracket now and what will it be?

Generally speaking if you are in a high tax bracket and plan on making less money when you retire than you would want to consider tax-deferred contributions. Tax-deferred contributions are deferred on taxes up until the point when you start withdrawing the money. If you are currently making enough money to be in let’s say, the 33% tax bracket, but when you retire you only plan on being in the 25% tax bracket, then you should definitely consider placing your money into your 401k as tax deferred. By deferring taxes until you withdraw the money after retirement in the 25% tax bracket you would be saving 8% on taxes (33%-25%) and on top by deferring you have 33% more money in your fund that can grow tax deferred. If you tax deferred $5,000 a year into your 401k and it grew at 8% a year for 30 years; you’re ending balance would be about $611,729.34 which you would draw out in monthly payments that would be taxed at 25% or whichever bracket you fall into after retirement. If you took that same $5,000 dollars but put your money in after tax your final balance for the same scenario would be about $409,858.66, the difference is that you would not have to pay taxes on this money because you have already paid them. You would have about 50% more money in your account after 30 years.

The opposite also holds true. If you are currently in a 15% tax bracket but plan on retiring and being in a 25% bracket, then you may opt to place after tax money into your 401k.

Please keep in mind everyone’s situation is unique and that you should find yourself a good financial advisor or planner if you are unsure of which is best for you.

Is this money going to be used for emergencies?

If you are using your 401K as an emergency buffer account for things that ARE NOT: Primary Residence purchasers, Medical Emergencies, and things of this nature and plan on USING it for things such as credit card debt, paying late bills, and other things related, then you will definitely want to take into consideration the 10% tax penalty and tax consequences of making a withdrawal for these things.

If you take a withdrawal on a tax-deferred 401K that is a non-emergency than you will be subject to not only income tax on that money but a 10% tax penalty as well. Please take that into consideration before making any unnecessary withdrawals. Also, you can always get a loan from your 401K but it is not recommended because you lose savings principal to earn interest on and you have to pay it back at an interest rate probably around 8%.

In the big world of investing, it seems we hear a lot about what securities to invest in, but not as much about what types of accounts to invest in. There are so many different types of investment accounts, each covering a different purpose, and new types of accounts seem to be created weekly. What are some of the basic types of investment accounts and what can they do for you? This article covers some of the accounts that are available currently and why you would use each one.

Retirement Accounts

IRA stands for Individual Retirement Account. An IRA is meant for those who do not have access to employer sponsored retirement plans such as 401(k) plans or those who would like to contribute more than the maximum allowed by their employer plans. Why choose an IRA? Tax-deferred growth is the answer. With a standard savings account, you have to pay taxes on the interest or earnings that the account makes each year. An IRA, on the other hand, doesn’t require you to pay taxes until the money is taken out in retirement, thus leaving more money in the account to grow each year. In many instances you can also deduct your IRA contributions on your taxes, giving you further tax savings. It seems like a small thing especially when the account balance is still small, but over time it makes a big difference. Investing $10,000 for 30 years in a regular savings account with a 28% tax bracket and a 6% average growth rate will give you $35,565 whereas that same amount put into a tax-deferred account will give you $57,435. Eventually, however, you do have to pay taxes on the earnings in your IRA, but you are still left with $44,153 after taxes are paid. Your net gain for tax-deferred growth is just over $8500.

Another individual plan is a Roth IRA. It is somewhat similar to a traditional IRA but the difference is that you cannot deduct the contributions and the earnings grow tax-free instead of tax-deferred. This type of plan is good for someone with a longer timeframe to invest or those whose tax bracket in retirement will be close to or higher than their current tax rate. Tax-free growth means that you don’t have to pay taxes on any of the earnings in the account. If we start with $10,000 and invest it for 30 years at 6% growth like our example above, you would be left with $57,435. None of that money has to have taxes paid on it since the initial $10,000 already had taxes taken out and the earnings grew tax-free. Before you wonder why anyone would not automatically use a Roth IRA, consider the fact that the initial $10,000 investment wasn’t tax deductible like it was for the traditional IRA above. With a 28% tax bracket, the Roth paid $2,800 on its initial $10,000 investment. If we look at the growth potential of $2,800 for 30 years in a tax-deferred account, it grows to $16,082. So, in this person’s situation where their tax bracket is the same in retirement as it is while working with a 6% rate of growth, a Roth wouldn’t be the best option. The Roth would only grow to $57,435 – $16,082 = $41,353 when all taxes are taken into consideration while the traditional IRA would grow to $44,153. There are several online calculators that can estimate which type of IRA would be to your advantage. Search under Roth vs. Traditional IRA for more information and calculators to determine the best account for you.

In addition to individual plans there are also employer-sponsored plans. SEP IRA, SIMPLE IRA and Keogh plans are in between Traditional Individual Retirement Accounts and the standard employer sponsored plans such as 401(k)’s. SEP’s, SIMPLE’s and Keogh’s are for self employed individuals or small companies that need to put aside more money than a standard IRA allows but aren’t large enough to warrant the expense of a 401(k) plan. Each plan allows both employee and employer contributions. Each has set maximums between $6,000 and $30,000, depending on the plan and the contributor, and each has tax incentives for both the employer and the employee. These plans are great for small businesses to be able to set aside money for themselves and their employees and not have to go through the time and expense of larger employer sponsored plans.

The last type of retirement plans are employer sponsored plans. When it comes to retirement, it seems everyone knows the term 401(k). This is because a 401(k) is the retirement plan of choice for medium and large companies. In 2006, the maximum contribution to a 401(k) is $15,000. If you are over fifty and your employer offers the 401(k) “catch-up” contribution, you can contribute up to $5,000 more, so $20,000 total. Your employer may also contribute to your 401(k) plan which generally doesn’t decrease your contribution allowance. Originally, 401(k) plans were only offered to for-profit companies. Those who worked for non-profit companies such as charities, schools, universities and hospitals weren’t able to contribute to 401(k) plans but were able to open 403(b) plans which allowed most of the same contribution limits as a 401(k). Government or public employees often used 457(b) plans for their contributions and for highly compensated employees there are 457(f) plans. This eventually changed to where 401(k) plans are now available to non-profit companies so more and more of the non-profit sector are opening 401(k) plans for their employees. Taxes on these types of plan can vary from one plan to another, so it is best to consult your plan director or talk with the investment company that manages your employers plan.

Education Savings Plans

Education plans have become available in the past decade allowing parents to better save for their children’s education. Instead of trying to set money aside in taxable savings accounts, parents can now setup an education savings account that has various tax advantages depending upon the type of account used. Choosing an education savings account depends upon what your long-term goals are for the money. There are three basic types of education savings accounts, IRC section 529 plans, the Coverdell Education Savings Account (CESA) and the Uniform Gift to Minors Account (UGMA). Each plan is tailored a little differently when it comes to its tax advantages and who gets the money from each plan, but each has the same general purpose, to save for your children or grandchildren’s future.

Medical Savings Accounts

There are three different types of accounts to help you save for healthcare costs, Flexible Spending Accounts (FSA), Health Reimbursement Arrangements (HRA) and Health Savings Accounts (HSA). The first of these, Flexible Spending Accounts are also called section 125 plans or “cafeteria plans.” This plan allows participants to put pre-tax money into the account each year to cover health insurance deductibles, co-payments, dental care and other medical expenses. Cafeteria plan money cannot accumulate from year to year, however, so it needs to be used up in one year or it will be gone. The second type of medical savings account is a Health Reimbursement Arrangement. It is similar to an FSA but the employer contributes to the account instead of the employee.

The employer can make contributions contingent on an employee participating in designated health and wellness programs. In June 2002 it was updated to allow funds to rollover from year to year, but it cannot be rolled over from employer to employer so if you change employers, you loose the accrued benefit. The last and most recently created plan is a Health Savings Account. This plan enables employees with high-deductible health insurance plans to set aside and invest money to use to pay the deductibles or other healthcare costs in the future.

These plans are designed to put healthcare decisions more into the hands of the employees. These plans are also portable so they move with you when you change employers and they can be rolled over from year to year.

Other Accounts

For those who are just looking to invest, a brokerage account is the medium to use. Brokerage accounts are setup through investment companies to allow you to purchase securities such as stocks, bonds, mutual funds, money markets, options, etc. Generally the money sits in a “core” account such as a money market until you are ready to invest it in other securities. There are fees for purchasing many securities which vary depending on the company that the account is setup with. Brokerage accounts can also offer check writing, debit and ATM cards for easier access to money in the account. Since there are no tax-advantages of a brokerage account, money can be withdrawn at any time from the core account. These accounts are perfect for additional savings that you want to invest in the stock market.

The standard savings account is probably what everyone is most familiar with. Offered by any bank, a savings account allows you to set money aside and receive a variable or fixed interest rate depending upon the account. Savings accounts are very liquid and can be withdrawn at any time, but they don’t allow check writing capabilities. Most savings accounts now days do offer ATM cards. Certificates of Deposit or CD’s are types of savings accounts that require money to be left in for a certain period of time in exchange for a slightly higher interest rate, these accounts are less liquid and there is generally a fee to take the money out before the predetermined period of time.

Whatever the reason or account used to set aside money, it is always a good thing. Savings in any form creates a more secure financial future and allows for problems or emergencies to be taken care of without having to obtain loans or dip into less liquid savings such as a home or other physical assets. Opening up any of the above types of accounts gets you started on the right track towards savings.

Copyright 2006 Emma Snow

Savings accounts are opened by individuals and maintained by banks, credit unions and other financial institutions. Savings accounts pay interest on money that is deposited in the account. However, the money held in the savings account cannot be spent directly, such as by writing a check. Savings accounts are mainly aimed at allowing account holders to set aside a portion of their liquid assets as a part of their savings strategy. Savings accounts that offer better interest rates to account holders are preferred, as they allow savings to accumulate faster. Therefore, people must compare the interest rates offered by various financial institutions to the find the best savings account offering the best rates.

Savings account function differently as compared to checking accounts. The numbers of withdrawals, as well as transfers that can be made per month are limited, and savings account holders do not have the option of using checks to do so. It is also possible to use the money in these savings accounts to make purchases. However, in order to make purchases, savings account balances need to be transferred to either transactions deposit that are also known as checkable deposit or currency.

Offshore savings accounts are a great option available for people living and working abroad. Offshore savings accounts allow account holders to protect their wealth and hard-earned assets. They also allow people with global business interests to conduct business in a confidential and private manner. Health Savings Accounts or HSAs are designed to assist individuals to put aside savings for future qualified medical and retiree health expenses without incurring any taxes.

Savings accounts are established for the sole purpose of putting aside a part of income that comes in handy during retirement, emergencies or any future purchase. A flourishing savings account positively reflects on the account holders’ credit score, as it establishes their superior money management skills.

The best mutual fund investment strategy for most people reduces risk and gives the investor plenty of flexibility. Here’s how to set yourself up to invest money so you don’t need to worry when the investment environment turns ugly.

We’ll use Jack as our example. He’s afraid of losing money, but at the same time wants to earn higher returns than he can get from his bank. A moderate risk, at most, he will accept. Jack is also frugal, and hates to pay fees to invest money. He has a savings account at the bank he adds to regularly.

His best investment strategy, according to his brother Jim whom he trusts, involves opening a mutual fund account with a major no-load fund company. This is where you get the best mutual fund investment bang for your buck, according to Jim, because the cost of investing is low. Plus, with a mutual fund investment you get professional management as part of the package.

Once his account is set up Jack will invest money systematically into four different mutual funds: a money market fund, a short-term bond fund, an intermediate-term bond fund, and a large-cap U.S. stock fund. To lower the cost of investing even more, the stock fund and bond funds will be index funds.

Remember, Jack is risk conscious. So, here’s how they set things up. Jack opens his mutual fund account by putting a few thousand dollars into a money market fund, where he has high safety and earns interest in the form of dividends. Plus, this gives him added flexibility in managing his account.

They set it up so that every month a few hundred dollars will flow from his bank account to his money market fund, which will be used as his cash reservoir. Then, Jack instructs the mutual fund company to have money flowing each month (equal amounts) into his three other funds (his investment funds) from the money market fund.

This is his best mutual fund investment strategy and it gives Jack plenty of flexibility. If he wants to add extra money, he sends it into the money market fund without interrupting his investment strategy. If he wants to take some money out, he takes it from there as well. He has the flexibility to change the amount of money that flows from his bank account and/or that flows into his various funds.

In the beginning he should have equal amounts invested in each of his three investment funds fed by the money fund. Over time this will change as all three will perform differently. The short-term bond fund is the safest of the three, paying higher dividends than the money market fund but less than the intermediate bond fund. It should not fluctuate much in price.

At the other extreme, the stock fund is the riskiest and it has good growth potential. The value of this mutual fund investment will fluctuate considerably.

To keep risk at bay, once a year Jack will rebalance his portfolio as part of his investment strategy. He wants to keep his stock fund and two bond funds approximately equal in value. To do this he simply moves money around between these three funds.

His money market fund is simply his cash reservoir, and it gives him added flexibility. The other three funds provide higher interest income and growth (the stock fund).

This investment strategy is especially attractive in a tax-deferred or tax-free account like a traditional or Roth IRA, because income taxes are not an issue until money is withdrawn from the account.

If you are looking into starting up a savings account, then you definitely want to check out the ways to save rates before you commit. The set amount of interest gained in an account and the savings rates vary from bank to bank, and from account to account. It is logical to want to have an account with a high savings rate, and the best way to find those higher up savings rates involve simple searching and doing a little back research.

The first thing you want to do to find the best rates is to pick a form of research. You can either do the old fashioned calling from one bank to another and questioning about the rates offered, walk in person to the banks and get an upfront response, or you can search online with those banks that have their rates posted. Whatever method you choose to use, be sure that you are getting reliable information and are not being falsely advertised to.

If you decide to call from bank to bank with a telephone, prepare yourself to be put on hold for periods of time, and be sure to call all the banks listed in your area. The best way to find the bank with the higher up interest rates, is to do the work and make sure you call every bank about every account. Having an account set up with a lower interest rate causes you to lose money that you could have made simply by doing a little more research in the beginning.

If you enjoy going around town and are set on going from bank to bank personally, be prepared for a long day. The best thing you can do is go around the early morning times when the banks have a limited amount of customers, and always check with the bank hours before you spend the gas going across town.

The last and by far the simplest form of finding the best savings rates is to research online. The majority of large banks have their accounts and their savings rates listed on their company website, so all you have to do is point and click. Researching online also opens the door to online savings accounts that often have higher savings rates than the banks locally. Overall if you are looking for how to find the best rates, check out how a telephone, internet connection, and a little personal effort can benefit you.