Concerned about the high cost of healthcare? Worried that your insurance doesn’t cover all your costs? Fortunately, a partial solution may be just around the corner. Since January 2004, taxpayers have had a tax savings tool called Health Savings Accounts, or HSAs. These HSAs may solve many of your healthcare cost problems.

How an HSA Works

In a nutshell, HSAs work like this. You buy a specific type of major medical, or catastrophic coverage, insurance called a High Deductible Health Plan. (This special HSA-compatible insurance is also known by the acronym HDHP.) Then, you annually contribute up to roughly $5,100 for a family and up to $2,600 for an individual–to a special health savings account. (Note that slightly higher deductions are available to taxpayers over the age of 55. Also, annual deductions are indexed for inflation.)

How You Save Taxes with HSAs

HSAs work because you get a tax deduction for the money you contribute to the health savings account. However, as long you spend the money in the account for eligible healthcare expenses-pretty much anything reasonable-you aren’t taxed when you withdraw the money. Note that HSAs deductions are not limited by taxpayer incomes.

In effect, the HSA makes all or most of your uncovered healthcare expenses fully deductible. This is a big deal because for most people, healthcare expenses are not deductible.
Just to put the value of an HSA into perspective, a family can save from $500 to as much as $1750 annually in income taxes by using one of these accounts. The final savings, predictably, depend on family income and the state where the family lives.
One other thing.

Don’t confuse HSAs with the old style Flexible Spending Accounts, or FSAs. With FSAs, you lost the money you didn’t spend by the end of the year. With HSAs, you don’t lose the money. The unused balance just carries forward to the next year.

Aren’t Medical Expenses a Tax Deduction Anyway?

No, not really. For most people medical expenses are not a tax deduction. Here’s why. Healthcare expenses do count as an itemized deduction for people who don’t use the standard deduction. However, only the portions of one’s healthcare costs that exceed 7.5% of adjusted gross income get deducted. That means that most people never get to use their healthcare costs as tax deductions because their healthcare costs don’t cross the 7.5% threshold.

Another Benefit: HSAs May Also Save Premiums

HSAs sometimes produce another economic benefit. The HDHP insurance itself may save people money because they buy less insurance. This is especially true for people who aren’t already using major medical insurance.

How to Set Up a Health Savings Account

HSA accounts aren’t difficult to set up. Essentially, you do just two things. (1) Get medical insurance that qualifies as an HDHP, and (2) Open an HSA account with a bank that offers HSAs. Your current medical insurance provider is a good place to start your search for HDHP insurance. You can also check with your state’s Blue Cross or Blue Shield insurer.

Three Warnings about HSAs

For what it’s worth, I am now using an HSA myself. (I got my HDHP from Premera Blue Cross and use an HSA account from HSA Bank.) But let me also share three caveats: First, obviously, you never want to cancel one insurance policy until you’re sure you have a replacement policy. Second, you do need to be careful about the fees associated with the HSA “bank account,” so shop around. Third, if you withdraw money from an HSA for something other than a valid medical expense, the withdrawal is taxable and subject to a 10% penalty.

Your partner, Uncle Sam, through the federal income tax and his State and Local Tax buddies (lovingly called your “Tax Partners”) are excited about getting their share of your business profits (and salary income) right about now. If you are like most business owners you are focused on legally reducing your contribution through strategic tax planning and strategic planning to your Tax Partners this year. If you are like the exceptional few business owners, you are doing your best to look at how you will reduce your payments to your Tax Partners over your life and the life of your business through strategic exit planning and strategic tax planning.

Common reasons given for this lack of strategic tax planning and strategic exit planning is, “we need to make too many assumptions and guesses”, “everything changes anyway”, and often, “we are too busy and just never got to it”.

Hence business owners who would never run their business with legacy software, put their crews in antique trucks, or run inefficient assembly lines often have old corporate elections and avoidable tax consequences because of strategic decisions made 20 years ago or more. (Just because you can’t see it doesn’t mean it isn’t there.)

A recent example we saw was a meticulously run supplier of construction safety equipment. When the business was formed 25 years ago the owner elected C Corporation tax treatment. At the time there were many strategic tax benefits to that treatment and the election was the right thing to do. Yet somewhere between 12 and 15 years ago those benefits disappeared but no one ever looked forward to the long term strategic tax plan and strategic exit plan in order to foresee negative consequences.

The business had an estimated sales value of about $1,500,000 and because of the size and nature of the business buyers insist that the sale be structured as an asset sale. This scenario means the owner’s Tax Partners are going to receive approximately an ADDITIONAL $300,000 from this transaction because of the old election. This is a huge price to pay for missing a change in tax status at the right time.

There are many other pitfalls and traps that can catch the small business owner. Because owners understand the day to day operations the traps tend to jump out and bite at times requiring major change and transition. Putting together the right team and asking the right questions periodically starting years in advance will help avoid these traps and produce superior results.

While long range transition, tax, and exit strategy planning and analysis seem expensive in the short run they are cheap in the long run. (Yes I mean cheap.) At the end of the day it is what you keep that counts. Keep more by planning.

Note: This is not tax advice but a sample case study based on similar situations. You are advised to seek professional assistance for your specific situation before taking any actions. No part of this is intended to be used to avoid tax penalties, or for promoting, marketing, or recommending to another any tax related action or activity.

Ok. Let’s talk about how to get the IRS to accept a pay plan for the back taxes you owe. Malcolm C. of Lexington, KY writes me asking how he can set up a payment plan with the IRS on his $19,000 tax debt.

Let’s review some of the facts of the case first:

1. Malcolm owes for two years; 2003 and 2004.

2. All of his tax returns are filed.

3. He is not under a current levy/garnishment.

4. He does not owe for business taxes, just personal.

It turns out Malcolm claimed “exempt” on his W-4 for 2003 and 2004 to try to get some extra cash. And now the IRS wants their money. The IRS wants Malcolm to pay $753 per month on a payment plan. But he can only afford to pay $400 per month. What are his options? This is a very common scenario that I see over and over again with my clients.

First of all, you will never get away with claiming “exempt” on your W-4. Eventually you will always have to pay the piper (plus penalties and interest). In almost every situation, the extra money you got during the exempt period just isn’t worth the hassle and expense you experience later on. If the IRS wanted to get super technical about it, they could probably make a criminal charge of tax fraud stick by claiming that you knowingly and willfully underwithheld on your income taxes. However, the chances of you getting even investigated (let alone indicted) are next to none in a case like this. Bottom line: Just don’t do it.

SOLUTION: The best thing for Malcolm to do is call the IRS ACS (Automated Collection System) line at 1-800-823-1040 and request a “Streamlined Installment Agreement.” A Streamlined Installment Agreement is available to any taxpayer as a matter of right if you owe less than $25,000; have all of your tax returns filed; and only owe for personal income tax (no business payroll tax debts). The Streamlined Installment Agreement is calculated by taking your total tax liability (in this case $19,000) and dividing it by 60 months. So Malcolm is looking at a monthly payment of approximately $320 to $325 per month over the next five years (60 months) that he can set up with the IRS ACS unit.

The benefit of a Streamlined Installment Agreement is that the IRS will not levy or garnish you as long as you are on the pay plan. It becomes another monthly bill and you just pay it for the next five years (it will actually be a little longer than 5 years since penalties and interest will still accrue). Now the IRS reserves the right to file a Federal Tax Lien even if you are making the payments to preserve their interest in the debt until it is paid in full, so don’t be shocked if this happens. Remember a Lien and a Levy are two different things. The lien will not take your money, your wages, or your property. It just sits on your credit report until the debt is paid.

Also, you need to make sure that you stay compliant for the future. Any non-compliance will put the agreement in default and then all bets are off. The IRS defines “compliance” in this case as making sure all of your returns are filed on time (usually by April 15th) and that you do not run any new balances (all taxes are paid by April 15th for the previous year). Good luck Malcolm. In a future article I will explain how you can get a reduction in a similar case by getting the penalties and interest on penalties removed.

A good budget is made to last throughout the years. Yes, you can budget in the short term to get through troubled times, but the best budgets will take you out of trouble and to your goals. Budgeting is essential in planning for your future.

There are ways you can make your budget easier to commit to. The number on thing to remember throughout the budgeting process is that a budget is not a fixed document. It has to be flexible, as your spending changes over time. It is a guideline, but detours do happen.

Start with a budget that fits your family’s situation and spending habits. The key is having money left over, not where you are spending money. Don’t follow someone’s percentages as to how much you should be spending on groceries or gasoline. Your budget must fit your family. It is necessary to accurately list your income and expenses. Don’t round things up or down. Don’t smudge on how much of your income goes to taxes. Don’t leave things out. Be honest, or it won’t work. Never budget for a future income, budget for right now. You need to include enough categories so that you know where your money is going. However, too many people go to extremes in details. You don’t need to necessarily track every single category, you can lump some together. For example, my family budget includes a free spending category. This can be anything from clothing (we don’t purchase a lot of clothing) to a night out on the town. You have to include things that don’t happen monthly, such as your auto insurance, homeowner’s insurance, property taxes and yearly leases. Make sure that you are putting these amounts in an account for when they come due. This will save your budget when you get the bills for yearly expenses. You won’t be left scrabling. This is just as important as having an emergency account for auto maintenance and other repairs. You need to regularly review your budget to determine that you have enough categories and are budgeting enough for each category. You should also look for ways to cut your spending in your categories. Some things you can consider a challenge. Aim to cut your grocery bill by $40 next month. Look for ways to save. They are there. Make sure that you track how much cash you are spending. Keep receipts if necessary — this is usually easier than writing things down as you spend them. If you aren’t good at tracking, give yourself an allowance of cash. This is all you have to spend. We do this as we are awful at tracking our spending. But we never overspend on our cash limit for the month. We know what can and can’t come out of our checking, so it protects our budget. In fact, most people respect cash more than checking, so they will actually be stingier with their cash reserves. Budget your savings as a bill that must be paid. I recommend having it automatically withdrawn from your checking each month. That way, there is no way to avoid paying your savings. It is already gone. You won’t spend it thinking you’ll put a little extra in next month. The most important bill you have to pay is your future. Have realistic goals. Budgeting isn’t about tracking money, it is about meeting financial goals. It allows you to save for your future, for your kids’ college, for vacations and other things you want to do in your life. Without these goals, there is no reason for a budget and it will fail. You need to see how you spend your money by looking at your budget. Most people are amazed at how much they are spending in various areas. You need to be able to look at your budget and see exactly what can or needs to be changed. You can always cut costs and save more. Challenge yourself. The top thing is keeping your eye on the goal and remaining positive. Your attitude will make your budget work. Don’t look at your budget as something holding you back. Look at it as a way to find money for your future. A budget can definitely make your life much easier. But you have to stick with it.