401 K plan is a retirement plan that is on offer in US and some other countries. This plan offers tax deferred savings to the employees and encourages them to save for retirement. It is also referred to as employer sponsored retirement plan.

A 401 K plan offers several tax deduction benefits to the employees. These benefits can be availed by all citizens (except in certain cases where the employer can impose certain restrictions). In cases of people with less than 1 year of service, non US citizens or part time workers, contributions to a 401 K plan depends upon the employer. For others the rules are common.

401 K plan offers tax deductions to the contributors. Under this plan all the contributions are tax deductible, that is, tax is not levied on the contributions. Even though contributions are made from non taxed salary, it is not entirely exempted from taxation. The funds (or tax deductions) are taxed at prevalent rates at the time of withdrawal. Therefore the savings are only tax deferred and not tax exempted.

401 K funds (or the tax deductions) are generally monitored by a third party. The annual contributions can be invested in a variety of stocks, funds, certificates and bonds. But it is up to the employer to provide these options to his/her employees. He has the sole discretionary power over the management of 401 K plan. The contributions to the plan can be matched by the employer also. He/she can contribute to the 401 K plan of his/her employees. This is generally done by the employers to retain the employees. Employer contributions are not included in the maximum limit on annual contributions of employees. Therefore they are over and above the salary of an employee.

The employer can provide the option of buying company stocks from these annual contributions. But investing the entire in amount in a single companies stocks, specially the one in which one is working, is not advisable. This would mean unnecessary risk and therefore should be avoided.

Usually this plan is offered by big companies only. This is because of the enormous costs involved in the administration of the plan. However, simpler options are available for self employed and former government entities also.

The maximum tax deductions possible are limited and set by the government. The employer can also impose his/her own limits for maximum employee contribution (or tax deductions). For example a firm may restrict the maximum contribution to 10% of the employees income. The governmental limit on maximum contribution generally depends on the inflation rate and varies every year. For people over 50 years of age, catch up limits are allowed. This allows people over 50 years to contribute more than others. For the year 2007, the maximum contribution limit for people below 50 years of age was $15,000. For people above 50 years of age this limit was set at $15,500.

When planning your tax strategy for the year, you’ll be glad to know that you can significantly lessen (or even eliminate) your income tax liabilities if you know what deductions and credits are available to you. For example, retirement planning can have a net positive tax impact. Similarly, owning your own home has positive implications for you. And, although college is more expensive now than ever, you can send your children to college and garner substantial tax benefits at the same time.

Here are some things to consider:

Let’s assume for the purpose of discussion that you’re married, with three kids (two in college) and you’re employed full time. Your annual income is $76 thousand. And let’s assume that you are making these plans at the beginning of the tax year, so that you have an entire 12 months to implement it.

One significant tax break you can get is by putting money into a 401k Plan.

If both you and your spouse each put five thousand dollars into your 401k account, that would reduce your annual taxable income by ten thousand dollars. This means that your adjusted gross income is $66 thousand. That will yield a substantial tax savings. Another significant tax break comes to you when you buy a house — and itemize all your deductions.

Let’s say you paid mortgage interest to the tune of $16 thousand. In addition, you paid real estate taxes of five thousand dollars. You also made charitable donations totaling $3500 to your church, synagogue, mosque or some other eligible organization. For purposes of discussion, let’s say you live in a state that charges you income tax and you paid three thousand dollars.

Your itemized deductions equal $27,500. Now, your adjusted gross income is down from $66 thousand to $38,500.

If you claim 5 personal exemptions, your taxable income is reduced another $15 thousand to $23,500. Your income tax bill is going to be approximately three thousand dollars.

Now, let’s see if we can whittle that down some more. How about using some relevant tax credits? Since two of your kids are in college, let’s assume that one costs you $15 thousand in tuition. There is a tax credit called the Lifetime Learning Tax Credit — worth up to two thousand dollars in this case. Also, your other child may qualify for something called the Hope Tax Credit of $1,500. Consult your tax professional for the most current advice on these two tax credits. But assuming you qualify, that will reduce your bottom line tax liability by $3500. Since you owed three thousand dollars, your tax is now zero dollars.

Not bad!

Lastly, since we are planning this strategy at the beginning of the tax year, you should go ahead and adjust your withholding amounts.

Since you’ve effectively done the planning ahead to reduce your tax liability to zero, you can go ahead and adjust your withholding to zero as well. But don’t stop there: open up a Roth IRA (both of you) and put the excess cash there before you even have a chance to spend it. And if you have anything left over, set aside some money for your third child who isn’t due to enroll in college for a few years yet.

Conclusion

With some help from the Federal tax code, you can reduce your income tax to zero. It just takes some knowledge, planning and action.

The best investment portfolio for 2010 and beyond will hold stocks, bonds, and money market securities. Finding the best investment in each area is not possible or necessary. Coming up with YOUR best investment mix is. Let’s review your investment options.

I’ll keep it simple. If you invest at all you have an investment portfolio, which is simply a list of the investments you own. For example, if you have a 401k plan you probably picked a few different investment options from a list. Most of your choices were likely mutual funds. Even if you knew not what you were doing, you put together your own investment mix, your own portfolio. The question is whether or not this is the best investment mix for you.

If you are like 90% of the investors I’ve known and worked with as a financial planner, you don’t really understand this stuff. That’s why you should be invested in stock funds, bond funds and money market funds vs. individual securities like stocks and bonds. When you own funds professional money managers pick the stocks and bonds etc. for you and a pool of other investors. But you need to pick the appropriate mix of funds.

So, let’s take a look at the securities or funds you might own or be considering, and see if changes might be in order. I say “might own” because most people are not sure what they really hold in their investment portfolio. Sound familiar? Let’s start with your safe investments like bank CDs and money market securities. If you have cash invested in a money market fund, you have money market securities in your portfolio. The bad news is that you are earning very little in your safe investments. The good news is that you have a high degree of safety. Don’t keep all of your money here, but don’t bail out just because interest rates are low, either.

If you are risk adverse don’t be afraid to have 50% (or more if you are retired and older) of your investment mix safely invested. Sooner or later interest rates will go up… which brings us to the next area of investment options you might own. Bonds and bond funds (also called income funds) pay more interest, and billions of dollars flowed into bond funds in 2009 from every-day investors chasing higher interest rates. Check and see if any of your mutual funds fall into this category.

Income funds or bond funds probably treated you OK over the years, but this will change in a hurry when interest rates go up. Interest rates were at highs in the early 1980′s. They were at historical lows in 2009. When rates go up money market funds should be good investments and pay more interest in the form of dividends. Bond funds or income funds will lose money. That’s not a theory. That’s the way bonds work. If bonds or bond funds are a large part of your investment mix, or you are considering long-term bond funds, think twice. The risk is significant. Your best investment here is short-term and intermediate-term quality bond funds.

Now let’s look at the third category of investments you probably own or should own… stocks, commonly in the form of equity funds. These are the investment options that have likely caused you heartburn and acid indigestion over the past several years. There’s more risk here, but greater profit potential as well. The best investment mix for most investors: about 50% in stocks, preferably spread across a VARIETY of equity funds. Conservative folks might want to cut this to 25% or even less, but all investors should be familiar with the variety of equity funds that are available to them.

First, you need a GENERAL DIVERSIFIED domestic (U.S.) equity fund that basically tracks the U.S. stock market’s performance. Then, add a diversified international fund that invests in a broad range of foreign equities. You now have a leg up on most investors who miss opportunity by not investing abroad. You may want to add a small-cap or mid-cap fund that invests in smaller companies, because these funds can outperform in some market environments. Finally, consider non-diversified equity funds that specialize in stock sectors like real estate, natural resources, basic materials and precious metals for a smaller portion of your allocation to stocks.

The best investment portfolio going forward will contain stocks, bonds, and money market securities; but you will need to give your investment mix the attention it deserves. Hold some safe investments, avoid long-term bonds, and diversify your stock holdings. Uncertainty and risk in the investment markets is likely to remain high. When in doubt diversify across the three investment areas and within each of them.

There has always been a need for retirement planning and today is certainly no different. There are 401(k)s and many other types of retirement plans that are available to you. You will need to take the time needed to evaluate what your current financial needs are and what you expect the future to hold.

Recent events, such as the rise in energy costs and the ever-skyrocketing health care costs need to be factored in. Although gas prices have been fluctuating lately, I think they are going to go back up, possibly even surpassing the extremes we saw all too recently. These types of events can take a toll on your retirement plan very quickly. Prudent planning begins early and you need a good source of information. Websites like [http://jag-info-resources.com/retirement/] are an excellent resource to go to find answers to the questions you may have.

Did you know that most retirement plans have a ceiling of 10% of your pre-tax wages that you can contribute? While that may sound good when you view it against a 2% inflation rate, you must keep in mind that your planning today is not just for the ideal future, but the future that will be reality for you if things turn out to not be ideal or according to your plans today.

By starting early and contributing the maximum that you can afford, you will have a better chance of being prepared for the unforeseen. This is made much easier today because your 401k plan is now transferable from one employer to another. This allows you to continue to grow your retirement account even when you choose to change jobs or even careers.

Unsure of what you will need for retirement? There are calculators like the one at my site as shown in my author box below that will help you figure it out for yourself. This is a helpful tool that lets you see if you are on track or not. Don’t forget that life expectancy is getting longer. When Social Security was passed in the 1930s people lived about 2 years after retirement. Today you can expect to live 20-30 years past retirement and, suddenly, the amount you need to retire comfortably with a major change in lifestyle gets very large.

Lets say that today you need $40,000 to live on and you retire in 20 years, you will need a minimum of $850,000 to carry you through retirement. That is assuming that you will live an additional 20 years after you retire and are in good health. There is something to be said for debt reduction as being part of your retirement planning, as well, since the last thing you want to do is go into retirement with a ton of debt still hanging over your head.

Having $40,000 a year to live on with little to no debt will obviously go farther than if you still have the same debt load as you do now. If you reduce your debt load by the same amount that you save for retirement, you double your retirement savings.

One cannot have a conversation about retirement without the subject of taxes coming into it. The money you put into your 401(k) is pre-tax so you will pay taxes on it when you get disbursements. The 401(k) is intended for retirement, so there are also very heavy tax penalties if you withdraw any funds before you turn 59.5 years of age. If at all possible, do not make any early withdrawals from your retirement account, since most people have found that in addition to the heavy tax penalties for doing so, the prospect of paying it back, even with good intentions, is tougher than it seems.

As you approach your golden years, you may be wondering about the various pros and cons of tax deferred savings plans. While the idea of not paying taxes on your savings may seem alluring, there are also fees to consider.

Another complication is determining which tax deferred savings plans your family is eligible for. Before making a decision, you should carefully examine all options to determine what kind of saver you are.

There are many types of tax deferred savings. The most common is a 401k. The 401k employee retirement plan offers high maximum contribution limits and the opportunity to save interest over time. Just be sure to follow 401k withdrawal rules and understand that you’ll have to pay taxes on the lump sums you take out.

If you leave your place of employment before an appropriate retirement age, you will need to pay taxes and a penalty at that time — or roll your money over into an IRA.

An Individual Retirement Account (or an IRA, for short), allows you to set aside thousands of dollars for your retirement, albeit less than a 401k. You will not have to pay taxes on the income until after age 59 1/2.

You can look into all different types of IRAs to see which one you qualify for, including: a Spousal Retirement IRA, Deductible IRA or Roth IRA. With both 401ks and Deductible IRAs, you only pay taxes when you start withdrawing at retirement.

Most people are recommended to go with their employer-sponsored retirement savings plan if the company agrees to match your contributions.

Next, analysts recommend that you sink some money into your Roth IRA account; while you still pay taxes on your contributions, like you normally would, you can withdraw money at any time without penalties and your withdrawals will be tax-free starting at age 59 1/2.

Tax deferred Target Maturity Funds, consisting of various bonds, stocks and cash assets, are a good, low-maintenance place to invest your money as well.

To understand the difference between taxed savings and tax deferred savings, let’s look at some concrete numbers. If your monthly retirement savings contribution is $250, in 20 years you would have saved $81,897 after taxes.

By investing in a tax deferred savings plan, you would have saved $106,753, even after paying a lump sum tax! The interest you generate should provide a significant cushion for your retirement.

You may be jumping for joy that Uncle Sam’s cut you a break. It certainly is a generous deal, but as with anything, there are potential pitfalls. You may find that the administration, management, insurance and annual records maintenance fees outweigh the tax deferred savings you would have received — especially if you’re tempted to use your funds before you turn 60.

Many early retirees find themselves saddled with a 10% penalty or stuck paying a hefty tax when they opt to take all their money out as a lump sum at retirement.

If you worry about the safety of your money and take advantage of every protection plan at your disposal, then you may feel uneasy that the FDIC doesn’t cover tax deferred annuities, leaving you to pay for separate protection.

A financial representative will help determine if tax deferred savings can be a good fit for your lifestyle. If you do some financial retirement planning now, you can pave the way to your golden years with ease.